By Aileen Angsutorn Lees
has become so demonised that it is now synonymous with junk: that which is unwanted, that lacks substance. But the canned meat holds so much more emotionally, culturally and historically. And it’s not just the food itself that suffers – the stigma around is symptomatic of the colonial, classist and often racist attitudes that pervade the food and wellness industries.
You could say that originated from a zero waste concept – albeit a capitalist one – when in 1936, meat processor George A. Hormel & Co looked to boost sales of pork shoulder (a meat considered an offcut at the time). It was introduced into the US food market a year later, where sales were slow and steady until the US declared war on Japan and its allies in 1941.
then became widely distributed during World War II – with more than 100 million pounds shipped abroad – not only to American troops, but also to the UK as part of the Lend-Lease agreement between the two countries.
“It’s funny how is a metaphor for US colonialism,” Sierra tells me. “The US gave us in World War II, but they don’t like it."
By Aileen Angsutorn Lees